Follow in Van Gogh’s Footsteps in the Borinage
Coal mine at Rue de Marcasse, Petit-Wasmes

What drives a person to give up everything they know and begin again? For Vincent van Gogh, the answer can be found in the Borinage, a place that transformed him from a preacher into one of the world's most celebrated artists.

The Borinage, a coal-mining region in southern Belgium, was a place of hardship. Dark, smoke-filled skies and rows of small, crowded miners' houses created a grim atmosphere. The clatter of coal carts and the soot-covered faces of miners reflected their daily challenges. Yet, it was here that Van Gogh evolved from a preacher into an artist—a journey of struggle, passion, and resilience.

In 1878, Vincent van Gogh arrived in the Borinage to be a preacher among coal miners, a role his family urged him to take. He felt the weight of their expectations, and at the same time, his passion for art began to grow. This passion had been sparked years earlier while working for an art dealer in The Hague, London and Paris, and now, despite his duties as a preacher, that spark was reignited by his environment as he shared in letters to his brother:

“..there are no paintings here in the Borinage, and they haven’t the slightest idea of what a painting is.. But this doesn’t mean that this isn’t a very special and picturesque country; everything speaks and is full of character." — Vincent van Gogh, 26 December 1878

Old Station, 142 Rue de Paturages
Old Station, 142 Rue de Pâturages

Pâturages: Van Gogh’s Arrival in the Borinage (Early December 1878 – Late December 1878)

Begin Van Gogh's journey in Pâturages, where he first arrived in the Borinage. The old station at 142 Rue de Pâturages still stands today. Imagine Vincent stepping off the train, uncertain about his future but driven by a sense of purpose. This modest station marked the beginning of his time in a challenging yet pivotal place.

Van Goghs first residence in the Borinage at 39 rue de l’Eglise, Pâturages
Van Gogh’s first residence in the Borinage at 39 rue de l’Eglise, Pâturages

Next, visit the site of Van Gogh’s first residence at 39 rue de l’Eglise. The building is gone, but this was his first home in the Borinage. Standing here offers a glimpse into the early days of his journey.

Van Gogh House Rue Wilson 221, Wasmes
Van Gogh House Rue Wilson 221, Wasmes

Wasmes: Van Gogh’s Early Days in the Borinage (Late December 1878 – Early August 1879)

After Pâturages, Van Gogh moved to Wasmes, living among coal miners on narrow streets lined with modest homes and the smell of burning coal. He stayed with the Denis family at Rue Wilson 221, Wasmes, now a museum dedicated to his time there. He spent formative months preaching and supporting the miners, and the house still stands as a tribute to his work.

Finding Inspiration in Literature

During his time in Wasmes, Van Gogh spent his days not only preaching but also seeking inspiration from books. In June 1879, he wrote to his brother Theo:

"Am currently reading Uncle Tom’s cabin a lot — there’s still so much slavery in the world — and in that astonishingly beautiful book this extremely momentous matter is treated with such wisdom, with a love and a zeal and interest in the genuine welfare of the poor and oppressed, that one can’t help coming back to it again and again and finding more in it each time." — Vincent van Gogh, June 1879

Vincent read extensively, diving into the works of Charles Dickens, Thomas a Kempis, Victor Hugo, and others. His reading reflected his empathy and desire to understand others.

As a preacher, Van Gogh worked closely with the miners, sharing their hardships. He gave away his money and clothes, often going without comforts to live like them. He even went 700 meters deep into a dangerous coal mine. Visiting this coal mine at Rue de Marcasse, Petit-Wasmes reveals the bleak conditions—narrow shafts, damp air, and constant echoes—that deeply affected him.

"The people here are very uneducated and ignorant, and most of them can’t read, yet they’re shrewd and nimble in their difficult work, courageous, of rather small build but square-shouldered, with sombre, deep-set eyes. They’re skilled at many things and work amazingly hard." — Vincent van Gogh, April 1879

Coalmine at Rue de Marcasse, Petit-Wasmes
Coalmine at Rue de Marcasse, Petit-Wasmes

Van Gogh's first steps into art

In the summer of 1879, Van Gogh received a watercolor set from his former employer at Goupil & Co in The Hague. With this, he worked on an earlier pencil drawing of the cokes factory in Flénu, which he had previously annotated with colors in pencil. This marked one of his early steps toward embracing visual art as a medium for expression.

Coal factory in the Borinage
Cokes factory in the Borinage
Flénu, July-August 1879
pencil, watercolour, on paper
26,4 cm x 37,5 cm
Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

Salon du Bebe Rue du Bois 257-259, Petit-Wasmes Van Gogh
Salon du Bebe, Rue du Bois 257-259, Petit-Wasmes Van Gogh

Preaching at Salon du Bébé (January 1879 – June 1879)

Between January and July 1879, Vincent spoke several times at Salon du Bébé, also known as Le temple de Bébé, located at Rue du Bois 257-259, Petit-Wasmes. Vincent struggled to understand the locals due to their rapid French dialect, and his own preaching efforts were not successful. The Belgian Evangelization Committee concluded that he was not an effective speaker, and his contract was not renewed.

 Van Gogh House 5 rue du Pavillon, Cuesmes
Van Gogh House 5 rue du Pavillon, Cuesmes

Cuesmes: Van Gogh’s Commitment to Art (Early August 1879 – October 1880)

His failure as a preacher left Van Gogh lost and uncertain. He moved to Cuesmes, living with evangelist Edouard Francq at 5 rue du Pavillon. The uncertainty strained his relationship with his family, and he did not correspond with Theo for almost a year.

In June 1880, Vincent expressed his difficult times and explained why he had been silent:

"What moulting is to birds, the time when they change their feathers, that’s adversity or misfortune, hard times, for us human beings. One may remain in this period of moulting, one may also come out of it renewed, but it’s not to be done in public, however; it’s scarcely entertaining, it’s not cheerful, so it’s a matter of making oneself scarce." — Vincent van Gogh, June 1880
 
Van Gogh House Cuesmes interior
Van Gogh House Cuesmes interior

In Cuesmes, Vincent channeled his struggles into art. He sketched the local landscape and miners, capturing the barren fields and weary faces. His rough lines reflected both the harsh environment and his growing connection to the people. Drawing became his emotional outlet, and.. finally committed to becoming an artist.

Van Gogh Journey to Courrières
The route from Cuesmes to Courrières

Jules Breton studio in Courrières
Jules Breton’s studio in Courrières and the bar van Gogh visited when he didn’t dare to knock on Breton’s door.

The Journey to Courrières (March 1880)

In March 1880, Van Gogh walked nearly 80 kilometers from Cuesmes in Belgium to Courrières, a town in France to visit the well-known artist Jules Breton. Vincent, however, he didn’t dare to introduce himself upon arrival, went into a bar instead and returned to Belgium without ever meeting Breton.

Though disheartened by his inability to meet Breton, the journey—walking along dusty roads under a grey sky—symbolized his unwavering determination to push forward, even in the face of disappointment.

In July 1880, Vincent moved next door to the house of the Decrucq family at 3 rue du Pavillon, Cuesmes. During this time, his transformation into an artist was solidified. He spent his days studying Millet's art while exploring his own exploring artistic ideas, drawing early sketches of miners and laborers that would shape his iconic style.

"I do much better for the time being by first copying some good things than by working without that foundation. However, I couldn’t help sketching, in fairly large dimensions, the drawing of the miners going to the pit, of which I sent you the croquis." — Vincent van Gogh, 7 September 1880

One of these works was "Miners in the Snow", a powerful portrayal of the miners’ daily toil. This work shows Van Gogh’s ability to depict the harsh realities of working-class life.

Van Gogh Miners in the Snow
Miners in the Snow
Cuesmes, September 1880
Pencil, colored chalk, and transparent watercolor on wove paper
44 × 55 cm
Kröller-Müller Museum

Millet Van Gogh sower

Millet Van Gogh reaper

Millet Van Gogh diggers
Millet’s Sower, Reaper, and Diggers, Van Gogh’s copies, and Van Gogh's later paintings

The Influence of Millet on Van Gogh

While in Cuesmes, Van Gogh immersed himself in the works of Jean-François Millet (1814 – 1875), a French painter known for his depictions of rural laborers. Van Gogh admired Millet’s ability to capture sense of repetition and fatigue in the peasants' daily lives.

"You should know that I’m sketching large drawings after Millet, and that I’ve done The four times of the day, as well as The sower." — Vincent van Gogh, 20 August 1880

Studying Millet laid the foundation for Van Gogh’s later paintings, carrying Millet’s influence with Van Gogh’s emotional intensity and vivid colors.

Van Gogh’s Transformation: From Preacher to Artist

Van Gogh's journey from preacher to artist was filled with challenges. He faced deep uncertainty but used those struggles to fuel his creativity. Over time, he found his true calling.

"In this extreme poverty, I felt my energy return. I picked up my pencil again, and now I’m on my way. My pencil has become somewhat obedient and more so each day." — Vincent van Gogh, 24 September 1880

Even in his darkest moments, Van Gogh’s passion burned bright, though he often felt unseen:

"Someone has a great fire in his soul, but nobody comes to warm themselves, and passers-by see nothing but a little smoke and go on their way.” Vincent van Gogh, around 24 June 1880

"There’s an idler gnawed by a desire for action, who does nothing because circumstances imprison him. He feels by instinct, 'I’m good for something, I have a purpose!' but doesn’t know what it is." — Vincent van Gogh, around 24 June 1880

Van Gogh felt trapped, like a bird in a cage. He knew he was meant for something greater, and even though it took time, he kept moving forward, eventually finding freedom through art.

Van Gogh’s time in the Borinage is a testament to resilience, passion, and the belief that beauty can emerge from even the darkest places.

When you follow in Vincent’s footsteps in the South of Belgium don’t expect to find many locations that Van Gogh spectacularly painted like in Nuenen, Arles, Saint-Rémy or Auvers-sûr-Oise. But a trip to the Borinage can be very inspirational. What is your passion? What are your dreams? Do you have Van Gogh’s courage?

Van Gogh in the Borinage
Unlike Van Gogh we now have modern technology like cars to follow our dreams :)

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      20-11-2024 12:00     Comments ( 0 )
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